Located in Kitakami City, Iwate Prefecture, “Troika” is a renowned restaurant that serves authentic Russian cuisine like cabbage rolls and piroshki. Beyond its savory specialties, it is widely celebrated nationwide as an exceptional cheesecake bakery, regularly featured on television programs and media outlets. Today, I’m introducing their cheesecake—a personal favorite that I’ve reordered multiple times, and an unpretentious, bona fide masterpiece.
A Classic Cheesecake Baked Since the Showa Era
Troika opened in Kitakami back in 1973 (Showa 48) as a restaurant. At the time, Russian restaurants were exceptionally rare in the prefecture, leading the founder to develop this cheesecake in 1977 (Showa 52) to attract new patrons. Through decades of continuous refinement, it has grown into the restaurant’s signature dessert.
* Reference: “Baked Cheesecake Made with Kitakami Milk | Troika [Cheesecakes for Adults] 4,” Serai, https://serai.jp/gourmet/1064382
The late 1970s, when Troika first started baking cheesecake, coincided with Japan’s first major cheesecake boom, with weekly publications and fashion magazines running extensive feature stories. Developing the dessert to draw customers was likely a sharp response to the culinary zeitgeist of that era. Through tireless experimentation and refinement, it has earned a spot among Japan’s top-tier, most sought-after cheesecakes—a testament to the founder’s uncompromising dedication to perfection.
For this review, I ordered it online. In addition to Troika’s official online boutique, their products can be purchased through authorized distributors on Rakuten Ichiba, Amazon, and Yahoo! Shopping. Locally, you can purchase it directly at their Kitakami restaurant, or pick it up in Tokyo at “Iwate Ginga Plaza,” the prefectural specialty goods shop in Ginza.
I purchased the frozen 15cm (No. 5 size) cake for 4,100 yen. They also offer 18cm (No. 6) and 21cm (No. 7) sizes, and their official online shop carries both frozen and refrigerated options for each dimension.
The frozen version should be thawed in the refrigerator for about 8 hours before serving.
An Unusual Baked Cheesecake with a Lattice Pattern
While officially categorized as a baked cheesecake, it features an eye-catching checkered lattice design rarely seen elsewhere. Cookie crust envelops the bottom and sides, while a lattice grid of dough is woven across the surface. While referred to as cookie dough, it has a texture closer to a baked pastry—crisp on the outside yet soft and airy within.
Lattice crust designs can also be seen on European classics like the Linzer Torte. Here, however, it serves more than just an aesthetic purpose: the dough shields the surface from direct oven heat, regulating temperature to lock in moisture and keep the filling as juicy and tender as an unbaked rare cheesecake. It is clearly one of the ingenious secrets behind Troika’s trademark creaminess.
Furthermore, despite being a baked cheesecake, the interior remains remarkably pure white, like an unbaked cake. According to their official website, Troika crafts their own cheese in-house and uses a proprietary “Medium-Aging” baking technique to achieve a crisp, golden crust while preserving a molten, rare-cheesecake creaminess at the center.
Making their own cheese from scratch just to achieve their ideal flavor profile showcases an extraordinary level of artisanal dedication unmatched by almost any competitor.
Tasting Impressions
Now, let’s dive into the actual tasting experience. As I pressed my fork into the slice, I noticed immediately how dense it was—requiring a slight push to cut through. It has the dense, concentrated solidity of thoroughly chilled cream cheese.
Taking a bite, the cheese filling is luxuriously velvety, clinging to the tongue with substantial, satisfying body. The cookie base at the bottom is delicate and crumbly, while the outer side crust is crisp on the surface and soft inside. Savoring different sections yields subtle textural shifts that keep every bite captivating.
Flavor-wise, a clean, refreshing dairy sweetness unfolds alongside deep cheese richness and a bright hint of lemon acidity. You can also pick up the rich butter and subtle hint of salt from the pastry crust, revealing an astonishing depth of flavor. Although so rich and pastry-wrapped that it might risk feeling heavy, the well-defined citrus acidity creates harmonious balance. It remains delightful and delicious right to the very last bite.
Honed and perfected across more than half a century, this cake delivers the consummate quality only a true historic specialist can provide. While every forkful is exquisite, the subtle shifts in texture depending on where you cut into the cake are part of its unique charm. Its enduring popularity is entirely well-earned. This was actually my fourth time enjoying Troika’s cheesecake, and it is just as phenomenal as the first. If you haven’t experienced it yet, you owe it to yourself to try it at least once.
Product Details
- Shop: Troika
- Price: From 4,100 yen (Shipping separate)
- Size: 15 cm (Featured in this article)
- Calories: 386 kcal per 100g
- Where to Buy: Official online store, major e-commerce platforms, the Kitakami restaurant, and Iwate Ginga Plaza in Ginza, Tokyo
- Reference Links: Official Website | Google Maps
